December 02, 2010

Calcutta or Kolkata


I am an Indian and lived throughout in India – and I can’t believe that I am visiting Calcutta, now Kolkata, for the first time.  I was excited, enthralled and looked forward to getting drowned in Kolkata culture.  I was never disappointed – I did drown and what a feeling it was. 
It was quite late when I landed in Kolkata – the first thing that struck me was the Ambassador taxi.  These extinct behemoths were there everywhere – and I loved it – my first ride in a four wheeler was in an ambassador car.  I fell in love with the city immediately.
Next day I just walked down a while.  The difference from other cities was glaring and stark.  The British Raj buildings still existed there with work still being done out of these ‘offices’ – no flashy glass frontages, no multi storied concrete structures.  The place reeked of old world charm and aesthetic cultural montage.  Work moved at the same pace as the bullock carts – it reflected the mentality of the people.  The taxi driver proudly showed us the building burnt several years with the soot all over it still fresh.  They lived life and in between somewhere, work moved. Take it easy. The people had a weird attitude – they did everything they could to ensure they did nothing.  That’s a great way to view life and death.
The tea in the mud containers told everything that Kolkata stood for – crumbles easy but great on the green.  What is more important to life is what we stand for.  You need to compromise on what you need to do and what you do not need to do – each has its pros and cons.  I feel I am more of a person that would root for a life there.  I don’t want to rush life and take my environment for granted.  I need to merge into it and dissolve.
And lo, for the first time in my life I saw a tram in India – they disappeared from other cities of India ages ago – but, no sir, not in Kolkata. It was a pleasure to see people getting on and off wherever they wanted.  I wondered why they had stops at all.
And then I saw the Birla temple.  The security guards won’t allow me inside with my back pack (actually my lap top). I told very gently but sternly that I have come a long way and there was no way I am going to return without a darshan.  He hesitated, but took care of my bag till I returned (despite the fact that my placing a bag in their custody was a bigger security risk – in my opinion).  I offered to open the bag so that he can inspect – he refused.  I was humbled by his trust.  And when I returned, I was too ashamed to open the bag to check – he made me open the bag and check if everything was there.  I left the place having got the darshan of the Lord right outside the temple.
Next day was my ambassador ride day.  It was a great ride – I will remember this for a very, very long time indeed.  I was sorry it came to an end so soon – I just rolled the names of the streets and loved the twirls of my tongue – Shakespeare Sarani, Park Street and so on.
That night I wanted to walk back.  The street hawkers bring life to the city.  Just name it and it is found there – cheaper than anywhere in India, well, mostly.  And while bargaining they have a language of their own.  “Please, brother, take this.  I’ve been here for 17 years and if you find a defect and come after two years I will be here to exchange it for you – for free. And bloody, I bet you can find that guy in the very same spot with a few more grey hairs.  And perhaps, selling those very same wares.
I thing, I can bet on – you cannot get cheaper and better food than in Kolkata.  Of any type be it sweets or junk food.  Street foods of course, stand out, literally.
And before the culture could seep in, it was time for me to return.  I came to the airport – it is the blandest airport I have ever seen.  The bus stops in some metros looked better.  But the laid back attitude pleased me – I was in no hurry either.
I missed travelling by the metro – the icon that is trying to change the image of Kolkota – am I glad I did not travel.
Not sure when I will travel back – when I do I plan to go to the park street hawker and ask for a replacement lock and key that I got last year for Rs.30/-.
Liked Calcutta better than Kolkata.

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